multi purpose cordless drill with hammer action, variable speeds, depth gauge, torque control, quick release or keyless chuck and multiple batteries if the drill bit is of inferior quality. It's the part that does all the work. Takes all the punishment dished out by timber or masonry. It's grinds and cuts, get hot, incredibly hot and spews out debris along it's Archimedes screw of a body. The tail of the drill bit which is gripped by the chuck is called the shank. When you lean on the drill body to drive home the bit it takes the strain and bites into the timber with it's precision engineered and beautifully symmetrical steel cutting bit. The head of the bit can often be made wider, for boring larger holes with the narrower shank used to hold it in the drill, this gets around the problem of only being able to drill a whole as wide as the opening on the chuck.But before we start boring we need to choose the right bit for the job. Try and drill into timber with a masonry bit and you won't get far. Likewise if you try it the other way around. Let's look at the common bits using pictures where possible.
Masonry bits
The flat nose of the bit helps it to grind away the stone. One a hammer action drill the stone is pounded and grinded away.
Twist and centre point drill bits
The flat, blunt nose of these drills can make it difficult to start drilling without wavering off course. Making a small indentation where to middle of the hole should be can sometimes help.
Spade bits
Spade bits are flat with a very precise centre point for accurate drilling and a wide blade for drilling larger holes through timber.
Countersunk bits
You might be familiar with the countersunk screw. The head of the screw is not flat. Instead it looks like a cylindrical pyramid. The countersunk drill bit creates a recessed in the timber to accommodate the head of the screw giving a nice, neat finish.
